One Year Reflections

Sunset over the rice paddies in Bali

Sunset over the rice paddies in Bali

On March 10, I hit a personal milestone: I had been traveling for one year.

When I began this journey, I set a goal to travel for at least 3 months. Quite honestly, this felt challenging. Although solo-travel was something I had always pictured myself doing, it had always been part- idealistic fantasy: an image of a slightly braver, slightly bolder, slightly more perfect version of myself.

Now that I’ve lived this “digital nomad” life for over a year, I’ll admit I still don’t feel that I’ve transformed into that perfect Self. When I lump myself into the category of People-Who-Have-Dropped-Everything-To-Travel-The-World, I feel like an imposter. I never had my “Eat Pray Love” moment of clarity. No Brazilian Man. No life changing revelations born at an ashram.

In her memoir, Becoming, Michelle Obama reflects on Barack’s time in office: “Being president doesn’t change who you are,” she writes. “It reveals who you are.”

Turns out, digital nomads and former POTUS have much in common (please observe self-deprecating humor). I’m still the same me, whether I’m scooting around on a moto in Bali or dancing salsa in a Colombian discoteca. If anything, my “Eat Pray Love” moment was just that— realizing that no matter where I go, I still carry with me my strengths, weaknesses, fears, and insecurities. As it turns out, location is irrelevant. In my more closed-off moments, I have discovered that it is possible to be in a place without really being there at all.

I distinctly remember one night, sitting up late in a Bangkok hostel, avoiding the other young travelers while tending to a bloody toe. Feeling particularly alone and disconnected, I had spent the previous few days drowning myself in work and comfort foods (yes, I ordered spaghetti bolognese in Thailand…). Earlier that day, I forced myself to leave the comfort of the cafe for a small outing. I ventured out to a neighborhood known for its street markets and backpacker culture. After walking for about 20 minutes, I turned down a sparsely populated side street and immediately sensed that I was being followed. Panicking, I began to run, tripping on a bump in the concrete and slicing open my big toe. Too anxious to stop, I continued running, leaving a trail of little blood drops behind me. When I reached a main throughway, I finally stopped to look down at my raw and throbbing toe. Feeling utterly pathetic and alone in a chaotic and foreign city, I began to cry.

My three weeks in Thailand were a low point. Despite the fact that I was doing exactly what I had set out to do — at this point I had been solo traveling for 5 months already — I felt more lost and alone than I had in a very long time. I hardly remember my time in Bangkok, apart from working hard on a project proposal and tending to my injured toe. I was as if I was never even there.

When I was practicing yoga in Bali (cue eye roll), I learned that different poses serve different purposes depending on the state of one’s being in that moment. “Open” poses direct one’s energy outwards and upwards toward the sky, helping one feel more connected with and receiving of the universe’s energy, while “closed” poses funnel one’s energy and strength inwards by grounding oneself downwards to the earth. As I reflected on some of my darker days in Bangkok, I realized that it is up to me to notice when my internal balance is shifting toward open or closed. Then, like choosing a yoga pose, I must make a mindful choice about what I need in that particular moment, whether that’s allowing and honoring my need to be closed and protected, or gently pushing myself toward a more open state of being.

I was told that the success of one’s yoga practice is measured not by flexibility or strength, but by how one’s life changes off of the mat. As 2018 came to a close, it became clear to me how these lessons learned on the mat directly related to how I experience travel, and even life in general. While my travel adventure started on an incredibly open note, around the time I got to Bangkok I had started to increasingly close myself off, allowing my world to shrink smaller and smaller. I decided that one of my goals for the new year would be to tilt my open-to-closed scale just a little bit more towards open.

When I returned to California around Christmas, home offered me everything I had been aching for during my nine months abroad: a place that felt like home, the comfort of living in my own culture, eating familiar food and speaking a familiar language, and most importantly, a sense of belonging. And I’ll be honest, after just 4 short weeks, I didn’t feel ready to venture back out into the unknown.

But with my “open-to-closed ratio” in mind, I did anyway. Guitar in tow, I headed off to Colombia to explore yet another new city, new culture, and new continent. I’ve come to accept that the first week in a new place is always tough. It just is. But this year I’ve learned to push through that discomfort; better yet, to feel comfortable with discomfort. As someone who used to return home early from trips abroad when things started to get rough, this has been a big accomplishment for me. I didn’t give up!

I did make changes, though. I joined Wifi Tribe to ensure I had a community wherever I went. I prioritized doing the things that make me feel most alive and myself: guitar, dancing (riding unfortunately was not an option!). I found meaningful volunteer work to help me feel connected to local communities and help reconcile the “nomad guilt” I described in a previous post. I made efforts to get to know locals, for example, by living with a host family when I arrived in Peru. All these changes helped me feel safe enough to walk through the world with a more open heart.

I guess the last thing I’ll say is that none of this is unique to travel. I didn’t have to go halfway around the world to learn more about who I am, or how to be a better me. But travel does have a way of taking some of life’s challenges and packaging them up a little more densely and making the stakes feel higher. Like normal life, but maybe on steroids.

I am so unbelievably grateful for the past year. There isn’t a day that goes by that I’m not aware of how lucky I am to have the opportunity and privilege to choose this lifestyle for myself.



My first 6 weeks in Colombia

Cartagena

Last weekend, we spent 4 days in Cartagena, a port city on the Caribbean coast known for it’s historic walled old city, beautiful colonial architecture, and Miami Beach-style hotel strip. Although I prefer Medellín to touristy Cartagena, I enjoyed learning about Cartagena’s rich history and wandering down it’s floral-lined, cobblestone streets. If any of you have been to the south of Spain, particularly Sevilla, it reminded me a lot of that! Which makes sense, because it was a Spanish colony for almost 300 years.

The colorful streets of Cartagena

The colorful streets of Cartagena

Ok, this doesn’t look that impressive, but I PROMISE these waves were actually really big!!

Our first day we did an all-day boat tour to some of Cartagena’s surrounding islands. Honestly, the whole scene was a little “fratty” for my taste (think day-drinking on boats with techno music in the background). We had a pretty harrowing return trip, with our very-skilled captain navigating his way through waves that were at least 3-4 meters high. Thankful for dramamine!

The next day, my roommate Heather and I spent the day walking and exploring the old town. My favorite part of the day was when we ventured into Getsemaní, an up-and-coming neighborhood just outside the old city walls that was once known for prostitution and drugs, but is now vibrant and full of colorful street art, yet somehow still feels authentic. Unlike the old city, which is pretty much saturated with high-end restaurants, hotels, and Airbnbs all catered to tourists, Getsemaní still has a local feel, with residents sitting on the stoops outside their homes, playing cards. listening to music, or just watching the people pass by. I’ll let you check out the gallery of street art below :)

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One night, as we made our way to meet some friends for dinner, we stumbled across one of Getsemaní’s main squares, where a lively public Zumba class was taking place. Street food vendors surrounded the plaza selling empanadas and arepas, school kids socialized on street corners, and couples dined on balconies overlooking the square. The whole scene just felt vibrant!


Venga Nacional!

One of the few things I was advised early on was Medellín “must do” was go to a Nacional fútbol game. I’ve been to soccer games in other Latin American countries before, so I know it can be a very big deal, but this was truly next level! What amazed me the most was that there must have been at least 20 or so songs (or maybe I should call them chants?) that just about every person in the stadium (minus us Gringos, of course) knew by heart. There wasn’t a single moment throughout the game that the entire stadium wasn’t chanting along to some song. And these were not your basic, repetitive “lets go [team name]” type cheers either… these were lyrically complete songs with complex rhythms and varying pitches. They were accompanied by a full band, which reminded me a bit of my college days :). It made me wish I knew all the words!

My only complaint was that with the sea of green flags waiving in front of me, it was actually hard to watch the game! But it didn’t matter, the second Nacional scored, the whole stadium erupted in one of the loudest collective roars I’ve ever heard. Pretty awesome!

Tribe’s Got Talent

During the last week of the chapter, my apartment-mates and I decided to host a Wifi Tribe talent night. Although I was nervous that nobody would show it, it ended up being a great success! We had musicians, contortionists, even upside-down jugglers (it just so happens that our very own triber holds the world record for upside down juggling… you can’t make this stuff up!).

Jen and I also played a few songs (we are going by the name Buttermilk… it’s weird, don’t ask..). Here are a few video highlights! DISCLAIMER: We are not perfect!! This was just for fun :)

Música!

One of the things I absolutely love about Colombia is that there is live music everywhere! Here are just a few of the live performances I’ve seen:

These guys were so good. Just listen to that guitar solo performed by the guy in the back!

Notice all the couples dancing Cuban salsa :)

It’s normal to be working at a cafe and just have street performers (who are really good!) come up and start playing :)

More highlights

It’s hard to believe that my first “chapter” of Wifi Tribe is already over! Below are a few more highlights from my first 6 weeks in Colombia.

Sunset in Cartagena

Sunset in Cartagena

Some of the kiddos at Angeles de Medellin (where I volunteer) waiting to get brand new shoes!

Some of the kiddos at Angeles de Medellin (where I volunteer) waiting to get brand new shoes!

We’re thinking of making this the “Buttermilk” album cover… . Pic taken on las Islas de Rosario, off the coast of Cartagena

We’re thinking of making this the “Buttermilk” album cover… . Pic taken on las Islas de Rosario, off the coast of Cartagena

The new shoes (which were donated by a volunteer), and kids patiently waiting.

The new shoes (which were donated by a volunteer), and kids patiently waiting.

Heather, Jen, and I reppin’ our Nacional jerseys!

Heather, Jen, and I reppin’ our Nacional jerseys!

One of the places I like to go dancing has these frequent “intermissions” where a medley of songs comes on, and the entire dance floor is converted into a group choreographed dance, led by an instructor in the front. It’s really fun if you can keep up!

Heather and at at the top of Tres Cruces, overlooking Medellín. Unfortunately, the pollution here can get pretty bad, since all the smog just gets trapped in the valley. You can see in the pic that it’s pretty hazy.

Heather and at at the top of Tres Cruces, overlooking Medellín. Unfortunately, the pollution here can get pretty bad, since all the smog just gets trapped in the valley. You can see in the pic that it’s pretty hazy.

It was a steep hike to the top of Tres Cruces, but well worth it for the view!

It was a steep hike to the top of Tres Cruces, but well worth it for the view!

Angeles de Medellín

Escaping the ‘Nomad Bubble’

One aspect of “digital nomadism” that I’ve been struggling with is the dissonance between the the lifestyle I live when visiting developing countries in contrast to that of many locals. In many digital nomad hotspots —such as Bali and Medellín— entire neighborhoods have transformed to cater to the nomad population. In these areas, trendy cafes, coworking spots, and English-speaking events have become so common you could almost forget you’re in a foreign country. To be fair, these changes have brought some positive effects, such as bringing money into the local economy, creating jobs and opportunities, and increasing the safety of those neighborhoods. But like everywhere else, gentrification has many costs. People are getting priced out of their homes and neighborhoods. Many nomads, like myself, have jobs working for companies in other countries, which means their work does not directly benefit the communities they live in.

Of course, I don’t understand nearly all the intricacies of this issue. But I will say that noticing these patterns in many of the places I’ve travelled to over the past 10 months has generated a nagging sense of discomfort with my complicity in all of this. At the very least, I want to ensure two things:

  1. That I get a authentic feel for the place and culture I’m living in, not just existing comfortably within the nomad bubble, and

  2. That I don’t leave a place without giving back something to the communities that have given so much to me

These intentions in mind, I started searching for ways to volunteer while in Medellín. I came across an organization called Angeles de Medellín (Angels of Medellín). The rest of this blog post will be about my first day volunteering with the foundation.

 

The original angel: Mark Kaseman

Our group of volunteers. The guy in yellow is also from Wifi Tribe.  The rest we just met that day and come from all over the world!

Our group of volunteers. The guy in yellow is also from Wifi Tribe. The rest we just met that day and come from all over the world!

My day started promptly at 10am, at very last station at the end of the metro line where I was told to meet Mark Kaseman, the founder and director of Angeles de Medellín. Mark, or Marcos, as he’s affectionately called by the locals, is an ex-pat originally from Rochester, New York. Along with a handful of other volunteers, we hopped on the teleférico, or gondola, to start our trek way, way up into the mountains overlooking Medellín. It was about a 15 minute ride— just long enough for Marcos to tell us the story of how he started the foundation.

Marcos originally came to Medellín in 2002 as part of a dating service called Colombian Sweethearts. No joke! He had just gone through a divorce, and apparently traveling to one of the world’s most dangerous cities was a sure recipe for love. Marcos recounted how, at the time, nobody visited Medellín. Pointing to the slums on the hillside below, he told us that snipers used to shoot at people from those very same rooftops. Tanks controlled the streets, and gang leaders with guns and machetes would regularly hijack busses and hold people hostage. Life didn’t (and still doesn’t, he says) have the same value as it does in our culture— killing was an everyday occurrence.

The view coming down from the Teleférico. We were HIGH up!

Shortly after arriving in Medellín, Marcos met the only other “gringos” living in Medellín— a group of missionaries from the States. “What are you doing here”, they asked each other, each implying that the other was crazy just for being there. Marcos asked if he could help teach in the missionaries’ schools, and they agreed. After about a year, the missionaries left, but Marcos stayed, teaching in one of the local schools on a volunteer basis. The education was terrible, but he found purpose in teaching English to the kids and their parents.

After some internal politics that involved Marcos “telling on” a group of teachers who cancelled school for a day just to drink and party, Marcos was asked to leave the school. But as he said, “When one door closes, another one opens”. Shortly after, a generous donor offered to find him a one-room building, buy him some tables and chairs, and pay his first couple months’ rent in order for Marcos to start an organization to continue to teach English to the local community. However, things were not so easy. At that time (and still today, just less overtly), communities were controlled and monitored by local drug gangs. Anyone who entered the community must first be approved by the gang leader. When Marcos approached the gang leader, the leader didn’t like Marcos and threatened to kill him if he ever returned to the community.

At this point in the story, Marcos prefaced with, “You know how people sometimes do stupid things?”. Well, that night Marcos sat down and — in incredibly broken Spanish — composed a letter to the gang leader, explaining that his only mission was to “help the kids”. The next day, he showed up to the gang leader’s home and immediately presented him the letter. The gang leader read it, considered it, and eventually decided that Marcos could stay, under the one condition that if he ever did anything he didn’t like, he would kill him, no questions asked.

And so Angeles de Medellin was born.

 

Toto I’m not in Poblado anymore…

In Santo Domingo, you’re already high up in the mountains above Medellín

In Santo Domingo, you’re already high up in the mountains above Medellín

We hopped off the teleférico at Santo Domingo station, already high in the mountains. We wove our way through the crowded streets with vendors selling fried buñeulos (round balls of cheese bread) on every corner, while busses spanning the entire width of the road whizzed by us. Marcos warned us to stay close, as the motorists would not stop for pedestrians. After climbing a few blocks uphill, we were given a stern warning while waiting to catch the bus: Absolutely no photos were to be taken on the bus, or anywhere on our way until we reached the foundation. We were now entering the territory of La Oficina, one of the main drug cartels still operating under Pablo Escobar’s infamous Medellín cartel. If we were to take any photos, they’d immediately take our cameras, or worse. (But don’t worry, Mom & Dad! Marcos has never lost a volunteer… we’re safe with him!)

We rode the bus through what Marcos said was Medellín’s only dirt road. Apparently, the government has been given the money three times to pave the road, but each time the money was stolen. Looking out the window, it occurred to me that we were no longer among the bright and colorful streets of El Poblado. Instead, there were families living in broken down huts built into the hillsides, with no electricity or running water, and stray dogs roaming the streets.

Kids playing in the street with a volunteer in Regalo de Dios

Kids playing in the street with a volunteer in Regalo de Dios

When we finally arrived in the community of Regalo de Dios (which means “gift from God”, somewhat paradoxically because this community certainly doesn’t have much) Marcos was greeted with big, often toothless smiles and a warm “Buenos días Marcos!” from every direction— the grandmother sitting in the dusty doorway, the seamstress standing in front of her own little shop, the kids playing in the street, even the local dogs! It was obvious that this community adores and respects Marcos very much.

We approached a brightly painted blue door with the Angeles logo on it. Marcos now has two separate buildings that house the foundation, ironically rented from the same gang leader who originally had threatened to kill him (he has now been in and out of prison several times). Now, they seem to have a mutual respect, although Marcos knows that he will always be at the mercy of the gangs who control the area.

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The moment I stepped foot in the center, I had kids practically hanging off all four limbs. They were delighted to see us and for the most part were not shy about interacting with the volunteers. On Wednesdays, Marcos invites some of the single mothers in the community to cook a free lunch for the community, and he pays them for their time. Some volunteers helped in the kitchen, while others just enjoyed playing with the kids.

One of the most memorable moments of the day was when I pulled out a guitar and immediately a group of 8-10 kids flocked to me, all begging to play. While some were content just to strum aggressively at the strings, others had interest in actually learning chords. For those kids, I was able to show them where to place their fingers on the frets and then lend my support when their tiny fingers couldn’t press the strings quite hard enough. It was a special moment.

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During lunch I sat at the kids table, proposing questions to the group and receiving back a chorus of enthusiastic answers. My favorite interaction was when, after asking the kids how old they thought I was, one kid blurted out “100!” with almost no hesitation. I’d say I’m looking pretty good for a centenarian! The kids also love to play matching games, so I was humbly beaten (and when I say beaten, I mean more like crushed) by a couple of 8 year olds. Pretty amazing what these young minds can do!

Enjoying lunch at the kids’ table

Enjoying lunch at the kids’ table

Handing out cookies at the end of the day. The little girl talking to me and her big sister behind her are from Venezuela. Due to the crisis there, the organization has seen a big influx of Venezuelan immigrants

Handing out cookies at the end of the day. The little girl talking to me and her big sister behind her are from Venezuela. Due to the crisis there, the organization has seen a big influx of Venezuelan immigrants

At the end of the day, the new volunteers handed out cookies to all the kids after they demonstrated some of their new English skills. Before receiving a cookie, each child recited the following English sentence:

“Hello, may I have a cookie, please? Thank you, bye bye”

However, when actually came out of their mouths was something more like, “HellomayIhaveacookiepleasethankyoubyebye” All in one single breath. It was pretty adorable.

Wednesdays are kind of atypical in that it is “lunch day”, so most of the day is spent preparing the meal and then having a little afterparty with the kids. But other weekdays are comprised of volunteers teaching English classes, vocational programs (such as sewing and manicure/pedicure), and arts & crafts projects for the kids. I’ll be going back tomorrow and am looking forward to getting a taste of how most days are spent at the foundation.

Overall, I am SO glad I found the foundation and have started volunteering there. The topic of volunteering in foreign countries (sometimes called “voluntourism”) is an interesting topic that I might touch on sometime, but this post is already long enough! Till the next one!

700 stairs and an underwater city: my weekend in Guatapé

A church cross rising out of the water is all that remains of the town of Peñol

A church cross rising out of the water is all that remains of the town of Peñol

A church cross rising out of the water is all that remains of what was once the town of Peñol. In the 1970s, the Colombian government flooded an area of over 6,000 hectares of hills and valleys in order to create a network of freshwater lakes, paying off the few thousand residents of Peñol to move to higher ground. Now, the Peñol-Guatapé reservoir culminates in a major dam that generates 30% of Colombia’s power.

I visited Guatapé, a colorful town nestled among these water channels, last weekend with 20-something other tribers. We started the day by visiting an above ground replica of the now underwater town of Peñol, which honestly was more a tourist trap than anything else. Our next destination was El Peñón de Guatapé, an enormous granite rock jutting out from the landscape and one of the main landmarks of the region. After climbing some 720 steps to get to the stop, the views were stunning.

After 720 stairs, the view from the top of El Peñón was worth it!

After 720 stairs, the view from the top of El Peñón was worth it!

El Peñón, as seen from our AirBnb

El Peñón, as seen from our AirBnb

Note the rave music in the background…

We finished our day on a boat cruise through the reservoir, where we learned that in addition to providing energy to the people of Colombia, the town of Guatapé and its surrounding lakes is now a picture-perfect vacation destination for Colombia’s elite. In fact, many of the vacation properties are still owned by the Escobar family. Over slightly too-loud techno music, our guide pointed out some of Escobar’s villas that had been bombed out in the midst of the drug war. The whole experience on the boat was a little strange… we were encouraged to dance (with our life jackets on) to rave music blaring out the speakers, no alcohol allowed, all the while our guide told us somber stories of the many tragedies that occurred in the times of the drug war. Not quite the atmosphere I’d expect while discussing that topic, but at least the views were beautiful!

We returned to a beautiful villa overlooking the water, with views of El Peñón from every window— undoubtedly the nicest AirBnb I’ve ever stayed in (for $25 a night!). From the main house, a narrow staircase descended on a beautiful pool, outdoor grill, and pool house, complete with a private dock. We spent most of Sunday just enjoying the property - grilling, swimming, and creating human pyramids (what?!).

The fact that one (out of 20) of us was a cheerleader 10 years ago made us fully qualified to take on the human pyramid…

The fact that one (out of 20) of us was a cheerleader 10 years ago made us fully qualified to take on the human pyramid…

The pool and pool house. We were spoiled!

The pool and pool house. We were spoiled!

View at sunset.  You can see El Peñón in the background.

View at sunset. You can see El Peñón in the background.

Our private dock!

Our private dock!

I brought my guitar along, and a few of us played and harmonized into the early hours of the morning. This was the most memorable part of the trip for me. There’s something special about the way that people connect through music, and it’s something I’ve missed a lot since my college acappella days. That night, a few of us took turns playing the guitar, while others sang along. At one point, we even had one person banging the kitchen pot as a drum and another on the salt shaker!

Since that night, I’ve started regularly “jamming” with one of my fellow tribe mates and closest girl friends here, Jen. Like me, she plays guitar and piano and loves a good harmony. I have to say, it’s been SO nice to have someone to sing and play with. I’ve really missed this in my life! We’re even thinking of performing the song below at a local open mic night here, so stay tuned :)

Having some fun jamming with pots and pans!

Feeling small in the Cocora Valley & Salento

One of the great things about traveling with Wifi Tribe is that it encourages me to be more adventurous than I might be on my own. So, after just 6 days in Medellín, I had already packed my bags again and headed off for a weekend trip to a small pueblo called Salento.

The adventure began the moment I arrived at the airport and realized that I’d be taking a tiny prop plane for the 40 minute flight to Pereira, a larger town about an hour away from our final destination (this was preferable to a 12 hour, windy bus ride). As I walked through the airport toward the gate, I noticed there was a whole display on on some Colombian celebrity that died in a plane crash. Not exactly confidence-building, to say the least!

A few moments after take off, we experienced one of those nerve racking, pit-in-your-stomach drops that caused a handful of passengers to inadvertently release an audible shriek (I’ll admit, I was one of them!). Even more nerve racking was the fact that from this tiny airport in the Medellin valley, the plane needed to quickly ascend to a high enough altitude to clear the tall mountains on the valley’s perimeter. For a moment, it felt like there was a chance we wouldn’t clear them. In reality, I’m sure I had nothing to worry about, but that didn’t stop me from involuntarily grabbing the arm of my seatmate for a few harrowing moments until we had safely made it out of the valley.

This was actually one of the biggest planes there!

This was actually one of the biggest planes there!

The view from our airbnb

The view from our airbnb

Salento was absolutely stunning.

Salento was absolutely stunning.

The town square

The town square

The town of Salento

After an hour long taxi ride through lush jungles and mountain views, we arrived in the colorful town of Salento. I quickly made friends with one of the neighborhood stray dogs, who I named Julio after the tour guide I mentioned in my last post. Salento is known for it’s trucha (trout), so my first meal was tacos de trucha with patacones, another local delicacy made of smashed and fried plantains.

The town square was filled with food trucks that had makeshift seating areas in front of them. They all served almost the same thing - various trout dishes served with rice & beans and plantains.

The town square was filled with food trucks that had makeshift seating areas in front of them. They all served almost the same thing - various trout dishes served with rice & beans and plantains.

Cocora Valley Hike

On Saturday morning, we awoke bright and early to hike the Cocora Valley, Salento’s main attraction. We hopped in a couple of jeeps for the 20 minute ride to the trail head. We were 9 to a jeep - 6 in the wagon and 3 hanging off the back! When it was my turn to hang off the back on the return trip, I was glad to be wearing sunglasses when a couple of branches whipped me in the face as we tore across the windy road.

Riding in the jeep

Riding in the jeep

Guys standing on the back of the jeep

Guys standing on the back of the jeep

The hike was absolutely incredible. We started along a stream that wound through the valley floor, where we were surrounded by meadows where cows and sheep grazed, and enormous, lush mountains towering over us. A couple of stray dogs decided to keep us company through this part of the hike. We then entered a more jungle-like section of the trail, where we inched our way across tiny wooden bridges suspended above a babbling stream. Slowly, we started climbing…

And climbing…

And climbing…

It was exhausting, but when we finally made it to the top, it was all worth it! Just check out these views..

I also made friends with a horse. duh.

I also made friends with a horse. duh.

The view from the top.

The view from the top.

After reaching the top, we slowly made our way through the valley, famous for its wax palm trees. Standing at a whopping 200 feet, these are some of the tallest palm trees in the world. What struck me was how they grew so sporadicly, giving the palm forest an almost eery feeling as fog crept between the towering trunks. We spent a good hour just sitting on a hill, admiring the view. One triber brought out his drone, which I have to admit irked me a bit (why can’t we just enjoy the nature?!). But I will say that it took some pretty epic pictures.

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One of my tribe-mates playing Tejo. Of course, as soon as I stopped filming, he hit the explosives! So I didn’t catch it on film :( But you can see the packets of gunpowder in the middle of the mud target.

A party game with explosives

When we returned to the town, we decided it was time to try our hand at Tejo, a Colombian version of Cornhole involving explosives. Yes, you read that correctly! Basically, imagine a game of Cornhole, except instead of bean bags, you throw rocks, and instead of a painted target, you’re aiming for a small circle of about 6 carefully-placed packets of gunpowder. When you hit the gunpowder with the rock, it explodes! Very exciting.

Getting back on the horse

At this point it had been a whole week and a half since I had ridden a horse, so the next morning I (along with 5 others) woke up bright and early to squeeze in a ride before my flight that afternoon. I took the lead on finding the place, since it was extremely important to me that the horses were well cared for (which is not always true in South America). Luckily, we found an amazing place that offers fantastic trail rides on horses that seem happy and healthy and not over-worked - for less than $8 an hour! Starting in the town center, we wound our way down into the valley past the famous coffee fincas. Once we reached the valley floor, we spent about 30 minutes forging our way through the river and the lush surrounding jungle. Our guide followed on his horse, literally clearing stray branches and weeds from the trail with a machete as he went. The horses were also really small, technically pony-sized. The owner said they were all Criollo mixes… which I believe is like a Paso Fino (for my horse friends, they’re gaited). He said mine had some race horse in him! This was great for when we took off galloping… :)

What really struck me was how well-trained these horses were. As we walked along the dirt road into the valley, cyclists in bright colored outfits flew past us out of blind corners, and trucks rattled by with tarps and strings and all sorts of odd and ends hanging off of them. Anyone who knows horses knows that this would NOT fly with most horses. As if that wasn’t enough, the horses carefully navigated their way through slippery rocks, steep hills, fallen branches… all with beginners on their backs. When the more confident riders galloped ahead of the group (no helmets of course), the other horses dutifully stayed behind (many horses would hate being left behind!). Of course, the trip leader was completely unphased. Not something you’d ever find in the States!

Riding through the river

Riding through the river

Back to “real” life

I returned to Medellín exhausted but happy. During the week, I’ve been trying to work at least 5 hours a day (though with all the distractions here, this has been quite challenging!). I’ve gone dancing on average 4 times a week (1 group class, 2 private classes, and 1 open dancing). I’m really improving and LOVING it! Last class I learned how to do a triple spin!! I’m also getting to get to know some “regulars” at the dance club and it feels great to start to feel like I actually live here. I just booked my airbnb for Feb 9 - March 9 with my roommate, Heather, so I am officially staying here 2 months!

Wifi Tribe has a tradition called “tribal tuesday”, which involves making weekend plans, having dinner & drinks, and then going dancing somewhere. So Tuesday nights here are always exciting… one of my favorite hangout spots is a bar that literally has a BALL PIT. It’s just like the McDonalds play pen!! Dream come true. Filled with germs, but a dream come true.

Not much else to report.. next post will be on my weekend in Guatapé!

Tribe & Transformation - My first week in Medellín

Hello again, friends & family!

Long time no see! As you can tell, after a few months of traveling I wasn’t able to continue to keep up the blog. This was for a variety of reasons that I might post about at another time. But, after having some time and space to reflect while back home in California over the holidays, I was reminded of why the blog is important to me, and decided to start it up again. Better late than never!

So, after a much-needed month at home spent riding, reconnecting with loved ones, and just enjoying the comforts of living in my native culture again, I felt re-charged and ready to tackle my next adventure: Medellín, Colombia!

Ready to go again!

Ready to go again!

Beautiful view of the landscape just before landing in Medellin

Beautiful view of the landscape just before landing in Medellin

This is the view from my apartment balcony! Even though there are plenty of high-rises, the city is so green and jungle-y that you barely even notice they’re there!

This is the view from my apartment balcony! Even though there are plenty of high-rises, the city is so green and jungle-y that you barely even notice they’re there!

Exploring the City Center

My first morning in Medellin, I woke up bright and early for a 4-hour walking tour of El Centro.  Despite my jet lag, I can easily say it was the best walking tour I’ve ever experienced.  Our guide, Julio, a charismatic Paisa (this is an affectionate term for people from Antioquia, the department (province) of which Medellin is the capital), shared with us the fascinating history of his city through eye-opening glimpses into neighborhoods deemed “unsafe” for tourists, stories that came to life, and personal anecdotes.  One that stuck with me was his account of when, at age 4, he was awoken to a loud blast that took out all the windows of his family’s small apartment.  Just a few blocks away, an entire neighborhood block was obliterated by a bomb: a “message” from one gang to another.  Although Julio and his family were physically unharmed, the trauma of growing up in a city plagued by a decades long drug war has stayed with him for life.

 
Not many cities would consider their metro “postcard worthy”, but in Medellin the metro is proudly displayed as a landmark of the city.

Not many cities would consider their metro “postcard worthy”, but in Medellin the metro is proudly displayed as a landmark of the city.

More than a metro

One of the few things I had heard about Medellin prior to coming here was that they have an amazing metro.  And it’s true - although it was built over two decades ago, the metro still appears immaculate.  Julio explained to us that when it opened in 1995, the metro was seen as a symbol of the city’s transformation.  Connecting parts of the city that had previously been isolated, the metro was a sign of hope — a glimpse into a brighter future.  As such, there is a palpable sense of respect that can be felt the moment you set foot on the platform. Climbing the stairs to the ticket booth, you leave behind the grimy, litter-filled city streets of Medellin for one of the most clean, quiet, and well running public transit systems in Latin America.   

Julio explained that the metro is not the only example of how Paisas seek out symbols of hope wherever they can find them.  He recounted how, when a Colombian cyclist won just a single leg of the Tour de France, locals celebrated in the streets for days.  When the Colombian soccer team scored one goal to tie a quarterfinal match, based on the outpouring of pride you would have thought they won the whole World Cup!

Colombian “bad memory”

As we stood next to the gleaming metro system, Julio somberly pointed to a building standing just a couple hundred feel away.

“See that balcony? In the mid- 80s, someone threw a grenade from that balcony to right here where we’re standing. That same week, terrorists took hostage hundreds of workers in a government building.  When the Colombian military came in to stop it, they took fake photos of the soldiers “saving lives”, only to discover those same people had bullets through their heads.  Two days later, a volcano eruption destroyed an entire town, killing 22,000 residents.  So what’s a grenade when all this is happening in just one week?  We don’t remember those things.  Instead, we celebrate when our soccer team scores a goal.  This is how we keep smiling.

The ability to remember the good and forget the bad is what Julio describes as Colombian “bad memory”.  In many ways, it seems that this mentality has contributed to the remarkable transformation Medellin has experienced in recent years.  What was once the world’s most dangerous city is now becoming an international tourism destination.  The building that once stood as the headquarters of Pablo Escobar’s drug cartel now stands as the Department of Education.  Millions of dollars have been poured into restoring some of Medellin’s most seedy squares into beautiful representations of growth and progress.  

Yet Julio admits that most of Medellin’s neighborhoods are still controlled by gangs, if now slightly more veiled.  For this reason, Julio never once said the name “Pablo Escobar” out loud.  “Out of respect for the locals”, he said.  It is clear that painful remnants of the city’s past continue to bleed into its present.

A country without a history?

Even more striking is the fact that in Colombia, national history is not taught in schools.  This creates a fascinating paradox: the immense pride that the Paisas have for their country juxtaposed with their apparent denial of some of the uglier truths of their past.  Yet it also appears that in doing so, Paisas are taking control over re-writing their own history.  Their openness and welcoming nature to anyone who sets foot in their country is evidence of how genuinely happy they are that people from around the globe have chosen to visit their country. As Julio said, we are all taking part in shaping his country’s future.

Plaza de Cisneros, also known as the “Park of Lights”, used to be one of the most dangerous and run down areas in Medellin. Now, it has been rebuilt and is a symbol of progress: the 300 light poles illuminate in night, creating a beautiful display.

Plaza de Cisneros, also known as the “Park of Lights”, used to be one of the most dangerous and run down areas in Medellin. Now, it has been rebuilt and is a symbol of progress: the 300 light poles illuminate in night, creating a beautiful display.

Birds of peace

Perhaps the most haunting symbol of the reconciling of Colombia’s past with its future come in the form of two, nearly identical bird sculptures.  The oversize birds, sculpted by renowned Colombian artist Fernando Botego, stand adjacent to each other on the edge of San Antonio plaza, an eerily empty square known for pickpockets and homelessness.  The city center is adorned with dozens of Botego’s sculptures, which are distinctly recognizable for their disproportionate and oversize features. Around the same time that Botero’s other sculptures were erected around the city center, a single bird sculpture was placed in San Antonio plaza. The story goes that in 1995, there was an explosion during an outdoor concert held in the plaza.  Some 22 pounds of dynamite were placed directly under Botero’s bird, blasting an enormous hole straight through its steel body.  The blast killed 23 people and injured hundreds more.  In the aftermath of the bombing, the Colombian president wanted to have the obliterated statue completely removed from the plaza (Colombian bad memory?). Then, he received a phone call.  The voice on the other line demanded that the statue be left right where it was.  “Who is this?”, demanded the president.  “This is the artist.”  

Instead of removing the bird, Botero built a second, slightly larger one, standing right by its side.  With the names of the bombing victims forever carved into its wing, it now stands as a symbol of both Colombia’s violent past and its future of peace.  


The destroyed original sculpture

The destroyed original sculpture

The two birds side-by-side

The two birds side-by-side

Traveling with the Tribe

The previous 9 months of globe hopping have taught me a lot about myself as a traveller.  One of my takeaways was that having a community makes an enormous difference in my well-being. It helps me to feel connected in my new surroundings, which in turn makes it easier for me to be open - to new people, new adventures, and personal growth.  For this reason, I decided to try something new this month.  It’s called WiFi Tribe.  Basically this means that I am not in Medellin alone; instead, I’m living, working, and playing with 30 others from around the world.  Turns out, the playing part is big, and I’m struggling to find a balance between the seemingly endless social opportunities and the need for me to actually hold a job.  Still, being thrown into a group of 30 new friends is a challenge in itself. I’m getting a lot of practice finding my place among so many other personalities, pushing myself to be open to new connections, setting limits to take care of my own needs, and sitting in the discomfort during these early days when the strangers feel more like strangers and the loneliness starts to set in.

THE TRIBE. And yes, they have KFC in Colombia.

THE TRIBE. And yes, they have KFC in Colombia.

Still, I feel very lucky to be surrounded by so many inspiring, yet humble people.  Many of them have started their own companies doing what they’re passionate about, yet you’d never know how successful they are until you Google them yourself.  Others (like myself) have decided that travel is what they’re passionate about and have found a way to make it happen.  Pretty much all of us are here because at one point or another we reached a crossroads where we decided to take control of our own future and create the life we want for ourselves.  

An admittedly terrible photo of the dance school where I’m taking lessons

An admittedly terrible photo of the dance school where I’m taking lessons

Baila baila baila!

Many of you will not be surprised to hear that I have already managed to spent a handful of nights dancing Salsa into the wee hours of the morning.  A few of my fellow “tribers” are also interested in learning, so it’s been nice to have a crew to go to the discotec with.  I also discovered that private lessons are incredibly cheap here, so last week I had my first hour of private instruction.  What a difference it makes!  My instructor told me he thinks I’m going to be a great dancer by the end of two months here.  Stay tuned…

Future plans

Right now I’m thinking I’ll probably stay in Medellin for 2 months, and then join the Tribe again in Peru in March.  Although the tribe is a lot of fun, I think one month on, one month off might be necessary to allow me to re-charge and also have some space to feel more like an independent traveler again. As I’m typing this, it still hasn’t completely dawned on my that this is my life - choosing a different country to live in every couple of months.  I’m just trying to appreciate it and take it all in while I can!  Hard to believe 10 months have gone by since I started in March of 2018.  What a special year!  











Morocco

After a week of hostel-hopping through Andalucía, I was ready to settle down again.  Lucky for me, I couldn’t have asked for a better place to call home for the next three weeks than SunDesk, a co-living house in the small fishing village of Taghazout, Morocco.  I arrived there after one of the more harrowing taxi rides of my life, in which I learned that: A) lanes are more of a suggestion than a requirement and B) that I was more likely to get in a car accident with a camel than another driver.  But when I arrived at SunDesk, it was all worth it.  Just take a look at these pics!   

View from the upper terrace

View from the upper terrace

One of the outdoor work spaces.  Spoiled!!

One of the outdoor work spaces.  Spoiled!!

My room!  No creepy artwork this time ;)

My room!  No creepy artwork this time ;)

View of Taghazout at sunset from SunDesk terrace

View of Taghazout at sunset from SunDesk terrace

Moroccan Spaghetti

One of the must-do experiences while in Morocco is to go to a Hammam, an Arab bathhouse.  I checked this item off my Moroccan bucket list one afternoon with Nicole, a friend I made at SunDesk who is traveling the world by herself on a motorcycle... Badass!  After another slightly harrowing taxi ride, we arrived at a what appeared to be just a regular house.  Inside was a dimly hit labyrinth of humid hallways and bathing rooms smelling strongly of sage.  After undressing almost completely, we were led into a rectangular steam room with floor-to-ceiling tiling and a 3-foot high rectangular block in the center of the room.  

Nicole and I after our Hammam treatment

Nicole and I after our Hammam treatment

I’m glad I didn’t do too much research on Hammams before I went, because the events that followed were a true surprise.  After a few minutes, a woman walked in, asking us to sit side-by-side on the tile bench that lined the perimeter of the room.  She then proceeded to bathe us by pouring buckets of warm water over our faces and bodies, like babies in a bathtub.  Filling our hands with thick globs of soap, she helped us scrub our bodies from head to toe.  Next, she asked me (lucky me got to go first!) to lie face-down on the tile block in the center of the room and proceeded to scrub my entire body with some sort of exfoliating glove, hard!  The best part was when she suddenly stopped, took ahold of my hand, and insisted that I feel the rolls of blackened dead skin being shaved off my body.  “Like spaghetti!” she grinned.  This joke was so hilarious that she repeated it when it was Nicole’s turn.  

Although it was just Nicole and me in the room, I couldn’t help but think about how this ritual typically takes place — often with 10 or more women or men (they do separate the genders), sitting naked around the one lucky person on center stage having the spaghetti scrubbed off of her, while everyone else observes from the perimeter.  Might as well get out the popcorn!

Although the small amount of tan I had accumulated while in Morocco had almost certainly been scrubbed off, I emerged feeling cleaner than just about ever.  Moroccans often joke that Europeans/Americans are so dirty - and I’d have to agree that if the standard is a a weekly Hammam treatment, then indeed we are!

 

Call to Prayer

One of the most memorable parts of my time in Taghazout was a nightly ritual occurring every night just as the sun ducked below the horizon: the evening call to prayer. 

During Ramadan, Moroccan “breakfast” (think of the literal meaning of breakfast: “break” + “fast”) occurs at sundown.  It consists of a big feast designed to slowly re-introduce food to the stomach by starting with lighter foods (soup) and then moving on to the heavier stuff.  

Stomachs finally full, all the men and boys in the town scurry to the mosque for the evening service.  This happens at dusk, often around the same time that I would return from my run.  There was something so special about the sight of everyone (except the women of course, but I won’t get into that!) stopping what they were doing to assemble at the mosque and pray.  At this time, the usually bustling town fell into a hush, a silence only broken by the melodic chants of the muezzin echoing throughout the town.  The many stray dogs in the streets also seemed compelled by the ritual, as a collective howling would often erupt just as the muezzin started his prayers.  It was truly a shared experience for the entire village. 

The co-livers enjoying a Moroccan breakfast.

The co-livers enjoying a Moroccan breakfast.

For comedic relief, the muezzin seemed to have cold, because he often stopped to cough, resulting in a every few lines of prayer interrupted by the sound of thick coughing directly into the microphone and echoing throughout the entire town.  Poor guy!  

You can hear the dogs howling along!

View from the terrace at SunDesk during the call to prayer one evening.

Fresh fish from the market! Which we had with Guacamole, of course.

Pedro Pasta

Like many developing countries, food safety is a concern in Morocco.  Fruits and vegetables with an outer layer that can be peeled off are usually safer to eat.  The result?  We had guacamole with EVERYTHING.  Pizza?  Top it off with some guacamole!  Soup? Guac on the side.  One evening, my Mexican friend texted our group of friends asking “Pedro pasta tonight?”.  Naturally, we all assumed this was a funny way of describing pasta with guacamole.  Turns out it was just a typo (he meant to say pesto pasta), but the name stuck.

 

 

The Sahara

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Toward the end of my time in Morocco, I went on 3-day guided tour to the Sahara desert.  My tour group consisted of 7 couples… and me.  So far I have found it quite easy to meet and connect with other solo travelers on my adventures, but I have to admit that this trip was an exception.  It honestly was quite funny - it seemed that everything was designed for pairs, and then there was just me.  From the seven double rooms and one single, to the one single seat next to the bus driver with my name on it, to my favorite: the awkward moment when, after taking a profile-pic worthy photo of a couple overlooking some incredible desert landscape the couple turns to me and asks, “ummm… well… do you want us to take a picture of… you?”  Honestly, at the beginning I felt pretty self-conscious about being the only single person.  But it was a great opportunity to practice not caring so much about what people think (always an issue!) and re-framing my expectations for the trip so that I still had a rich experience.

Bonding with my camel!

Bonding with my camel!

The Sahara itself was absolutely incredible.  I felt like I was inside a Windows desktop background. Sand dunes for miles, camels (by the way, riding a camel is NOT like riding a horse!!), and the most incredible stars I’ve ever seen.  I think the pictures and videos will speak for themselves.  

A silver lining of being the one single person on the trip is that I got to assist with a marriage proposal!  One of the couples on my trip got engaged that night camping in the Sahara, and I was recruited to help make it happen.  Given my very important role in the proposal (I held on to the ring for all of 30 seconds…), I’m keeping my fingers crossed for a wedding invite :)

Another memorable aspect of the desert trip was the opportunity to meet and connect with some of the Berber men who were running the desert campsites (Berbers are native North African/Moroccan).  Talking with them, it was striking how incredibly different our life experiences had been, although we were close to the same age.  One of them had never heard of California, and I in turn had never heard of his culture or traditions.  However, at the end of the night, we all sat around a campfire and played music and sang.  Pretty amazing how music is able to transcend those kinds of differences.

 

Hellos and Goodbyes... but more Hellos

A bittersweet aspect of this “digital nomad” life has been having to say goodbye to new friends I’ve made.  A friend of mine recently summarized it well: 

Part of the digital nomad deal is meeting incredible people that 100% understand you and spending an intense, but very short time together before everyone jets off to their next adventure.  It's always sad to part, but if I had stayed home and chosen a different lifestyle I never would have met them in the first place.

I really loved the friends I made at SunDesk, and I hope our paths cross again somewhere else in the world!   

SunDesk family <3

SunDesk family <3

 

More pics!

Aït Benhaddou kasbah, where many movies/TV Shows have been filmed, including Game of Thrones (which I still haven't seen...)

Aït Benhaddou kasbah, where many movies/TV Shows have been filmed, including Game of Thrones (which I still haven't seen...)

I loved this staircase in Taghazout!

I loved this staircase in Taghazout!

I LOVED the Moroccan breakfasts! (Actual breakfast, not Ramadan breakfast :) )

I LOVED the Moroccan breakfasts! (Actual breakfast, not Ramadan breakfast :) )

Oasis in the middle of the desert.

Oasis in the middle of the desert.

Spectacularly clear day in Taghazout!

Spectacularly clear day in Taghazout!

Road trip along the coast!

The beautiful Atlas mountains!

The beautiful Atlas mountains!

Nicole walking in Essaouira, a fishing town we visited for a weekend.&nbsp; This photo was taken just minutes before a bird pooped on her head!

Nicole walking in Essaouira, a fishing town we visited for a weekend.  This photo was taken just minutes before a bird pooped on her head!

Well, I had to agree to just one solo-photo!

Well, I had to agree to just one solo-photo!

Stopped to hike through the Todra gorge on the way to the Sahara

Stopped to hike through the Todra gorge on the way to the Sahara

A delicious veggie tagine

We went on a weekend trip to Essaouira, a fishing town known for its live music scene. This was a fun night!

Andalu-CYA lata barcelona!

The only thing that could make leaving a city as wonderful as Barcelona any easier was knowing that I was going to spend a full week in Andalucía.  Although I had already visited both Granada and Sevilla on a roadtrip through Southern Spain with my friend Leslie (hey Leslie!) last summer, I loved them both so much I was dying to go back.  First stop was Granada, which I'm convinced is one of my favorite cities in the world.  From it's mountain landscape to Moorish architecture to the free tapa you get with every meal, it's absolutely magical!

We stayed in a hostel in the Albaicín, a hillside neighborhood known for its narrow, windy streets reminiscent of its Medieval Moorish history and breathtaking views of the Alhambra.

We stayed in a hostel in the Albaicín, a hillside neighborhood known for its narrow, windy streets reminiscent of its Medieval Moorish history and breathtaking views of the Alhambra.

After getting thoroughly lost in the hills above the Albaicín, we finally found our hostel at dusk, aptly named "Cuevas Coloras" because it was, quite literally, in a cave!  The hostel itself was... an experience - the toilet was broken, the mugs leaked, and the you could actually just lift the hinges off the "safety lockers".  Ha!  But I was glad I stayed there - it certainly had character and the view was unbeatable.

Getting lost in the hills has its perks… this was the sunset my first night in Granada

The Alhambra

Day two started with some work (I actually do work, sometimes!) and finished with a trip to the Alhambra, a sprawling Moorish palace and fortress dating back to the 13th century.  There is way too much to say about the Alhambra and I'm sure Wikipedia could do a much better job describing it than I could, so I'll just share some of my favorite photos from my visit:

Inside the Alhambra

Inside the Alhambra

At night, the Alhambra is illuminated with a glowing golden light.&nbsp; Magical!

At night, the Alhambra is illuminated with a glowing golden light.  Magical!

the land of free tapas

I'm sure none of you are surprised to hear that another thing I love about Andalucía is the FOOD!  In Granada (and I think some other parts of Andalucía), you're given a free tapa with any food or drink order.  Uh.  Mazing.  Food tastes so much better when it's free, doesn't it?!

As the last Moorish stronghold, there is a strong North African influence in Granada's population, architecture, and food!&nbsp; This is just one of many amazing displays of Arab pastries.&nbsp; They tasted even better than they look (trust me, I'm …

As the last Moorish stronghold, there is a strong North African influence in Granada's population, architecture, and food!  This is just one of many amazing displays of Arab pastries.  They tasted even better than they look (trust me, I'm pretty sure I tasted ALL of them...)

I wanted to nickname Granada the "city of roses" because everywhere you go you stumble upon beautifu rose gardens.

I wanted to nickname Granada the "city of roses" because everywhere you go you stumble upon beautifu rose gardens.

Some nice street music in Granada!

After arriving in Granada just before sunset, we found ourselves wandering the hills of Sacromonte, a traditionally Gypsy neighborhood overlooking the city of Granada, in search of our hostel.  The address wasn't accessible by taxi, so we found ourselves winding along narrow dirt trails surrounded by tall grasses and cacti, passing by the most interesting cave homes I've ever seen.  Carved directly into the slopes of the hills, these primitive dwellings provided a stark contrast to the bustling city below, and serve as a undeniable reminder of how marginalized groups have been forced to the outskirts of the city, many still living without plumbing or electricity.  Nowadays, the lower area is shared with artists and bohemians looking for cheaper rent, and plenty of cave-themed Bnbs and hostels (like mine) have popped up along its windy roads.  But the upper area where the most basic caves reside still seemed relatively untouched to me, which was fascinating to see. 

 
Literally slept in a cave for two nights!

Literally slept in a cave for two nights!

 
One of the many beautiful inner courtyards

One of the many beautiful inner courtyards

The Alcazaba is the oldest part of the Alhambra used to defend the royal palace.

The Alcazaba is the oldest part of the Alhambra used to defend the royal palace.

View of the Alhambra from Mirador San Nicolas.

View of the Alhambra from Mirador San Nicolas.

 
This was the free tapa during one of my lunches.&nbsp; Now you understand why I'm obsessed with Granada!

This was the free tapa during one of my lunches.  Now you understand why I'm obsessed with Granada!

I had a great time wandering through the Arab markets.

I had a great time wandering through the Arab markets.

Whoever came up with the idea for Italian tapas was a GENIOUS

Whoever came up with the idea for Italian tapas was a GENIOUS

MMMMMMMmmmmmmmmMMMMMMmmmm

MMMMMMMmmmmmmmmMMMMMMmmmm

Follow me on Instagram!

Check out my recent Instagram posts below!

Why I fell in love with Barcelona

It's hard to believe that my two months in Barcelona have come to an end.  While it wasn't love at first sight, I have to say that I've totally fallen for this city.  This is evidenced through the extreme lengths I have gone to just to try to get a visa extension -- I even researched getting Italian citizenship just to stay in the EU for a few more months.  Sadly, it turns out this is not a process that can be completed in just a few weeks by young American women whose greatest claim to Italian citizenship is an undying love for a good bolognese.

Here are some highlights from my second month in Barca!

Mount Tibidabo

For any of you Friends fans (looking at you Mymy!), I have news: I WENT TO MOUNT TIBIDABO!!! If you don't understand the great significance of this life-changing event, I encourage you to watch the video to the right.

Jokes aside, Tibidabo was awesome.  A castle-like church atop a mountain, next to an amusement park complete with a ferris wheel, rollercoaster, etc.  The view of Barcelona was unbeatable, and the ride up the mountain on the moto (in the rain!) was an experience I'll never forget.

 
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SITGES

About 35km south of Barcelona lies Sitges, a charming coastal town known for its sandy beaches, seaside promenade, and numerous gay bars.  I was lucky enough to experience Sitges on a stormy afternoon in early May.  Forget sunshine, I've now decided that thunderstorms are the best time to visit the beach.  If you don't believe me, just take a look at the photos:

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colors of barcelona

One thing I've always loved about Barcelona is the colorful street art.  Walking around the city, I seemed to stumble upon some interesting piece of artwork almost daily.  Here are a couple of my favorites:

It was cool to see the artist at work!

It was cool to see the artist at work!

I've been trying to interpret this one...&nbsp; any thoughts?

I've been trying to interpret this one...  any thoughts?

 
For the 5 euro cover charge, you get a bucket of beer.&nbsp; Yes, a BUCKET.

For the 5 euro cover charge, you get a bucket of beer.  Yes, a BUCKET.

El clasico

If there's one thing that all people from Barcelona have in common, it is a massive pride in their soccer team, affectionately known as Bárça (pronounced "barsa").  One of the most exciting soccer events of the year is known as El Clásico, the much-anticipated match between Barça and their biggest rival, Real Madrid.  We decided to go to one of the best sports bars in the city center to watch the game.  We arrived 40 minutes in advance, and the line to get in was already out the door and halfway down the block.  Once we finally got inside, the place was packed, and the energy palpable.  It was an exciting match that unfortunately ended in a tie (a tie!).  Embarrassingly, I was unaware that soccer games could end in a tie!  So when everyone suddenly started leaving the bar, I assumed I must have missed someone scoring at the last minute.  Too embarrassed to admit I had missed the final goal, I tried to piece together the outcome without giving away that I actually had no clue who had won.  Unsurprisingly, the following conversation didn't give me many clues.  Finally, when I got home, I immediately googled the final score, only to learn of the disappointing outcome.  But I have to say I was relieved that I wasn't oblivious enough to miss a goal in the final seconds of the game!

 

you can call me "profe"!

I can now cross "teach a salsa class" off my bucket list.  

Rewind.  A couple weeks ago, my fellow "co-livers" and I decided to host a gathering on our rooftop terrace.  What began as a casual potluck soon turned into a full on rooftop BBQ + DJ + party complete with a 3-part dance workshop.  Don't ask me how that happened (I may have had something to do with it).  The original plan was to pay one of the instructors from my favorite Cuban dance bar to teach the workshop, but after the financial reality of hosting such an elaborate party began to sink in, we decided to scratch that idea.  Instead, we decided the workshop would be led by the two most experienced dancers in the group, a guy named Patrice from France (legitimately knows how to dance), and myself (6 weeks of free dance workshops in bars).  

Much to my amazement, the workshop was actually a success!  We have the participants to thank for this-- everyone had a great attitude and was extremely willing to jump right in and be patient when things didn't work out exactly as planned (in fact, we had no plan at all!).  I also have my fellow co-livers to thank.  Everyone pitched in to help make the party a success, from purchasing the food, to managing the barbecue, to choosing the music and executing the massive cleanup.  It was a team effort :).     

Afterwards, we had a delicious barbecue.  Although there was rain in the forecast, the sky cleared up beautifully just as the party began, giving way to a spectacular sunset.  The perfect way to end my time in Barcelona.

Some scenes from the rooftop BBQ

Patrice and I doing a salsa demo for the group. Wishing I wore something a little less frumpy!

The FOOD!

The FOOD!

 

more photos & videos

This was a peaceful demonstration to protest the imprisonment of Catalan separatist leaders by the Spanish government.&nbsp; It was ENORMOUS.&nbsp; You can see the Catalan independence flags everywhere and everyone dressed in yellow.

This was a peaceful demonstration to protest the imprisonment of Catalan separatist leaders by the Spanish government.  It was ENORMOUS.  You can see the Catalan independence flags everywhere and everyone dressed in yellow.

I took a spin class that was led by a virtual instructor! These are actually quite common.

This is SUPER Catalan.&nbsp; These human towers are called castells (castles)&nbsp;and are a festival tradition in Catalunya.&nbsp; They take it very seriously and have extensive training to be able to participate.&nbsp;

This is SUPER Catalan.  These human towers are called castells (castles) and are a festival tradition in Catalunya.  They take it very seriously and have extensive training to be able to participate. 

If you’re curious what a typical night is like in our co-living… (we’re all really weird and it’s great!)

The gardens of Montjuic, where I like to go running.&nbsp; The building in the background is the impressive Palau Nacional, where the museum of Catalan art is located.&nbsp;&nbsp;

The gardens of Montjuic, where I like to go running.  The building in the background is the impressive Palau Nacional, where the museum of Catalan art is located.  

With two of my closest friends that I met through my language school.&nbsp; Believe it or not, the market where this photo was taken is called "Palo Alto".&nbsp; AND believe it or not, Tati (the woman on the right) has the same birthday as me!! It's…

With two of my closest friends that I met through my language school.  Believe it or not, the market where this photo was taken is called "Palo Alto".  AND believe it or not, Tati (the woman on the right) has the same birthday as me!! It's fate!

This speaks for itself…

Street performer in one of the main pedestrian malls.

Dancing in my favorite bar, El Cubano. How could anyone not want to go here every night?!

Beautiful Plaza del Sol in the Gracia neighborhood.&nbsp; This is a popular local hangout.

Beautiful Plaza del Sol in the Gracia neighborhood.  This is a popular local hangout.

Ready for the next adventure!

Ready for the next adventure!

When your body says "No"

A few weeks ago, I booked myself a long-weekend trip to San Sebastian, one of the most beautiful coastal cities in Northern Spain.  I was psyched to go - I had big plans to go surfing, devour more than my fair share of pintxos (Basque version of Tapas), and get lost wandering through the medieval old town.  Unfortunately, I got sick a few days before, and despite my most valiant efforts to get myself to San Sebastian (including two missed trains!), it seemed like my body (and the Spanish train schedule) was just telling me “no”.  Much to my disappointment, I ended up spending most the weekend in bed, trying to recover from what turned out to be Strep throat. 

As disappointed as I was - and still am - to have missed an opportunity to explore such an amazing new place, I also feel that this was an important learning experience for me.  I ended up getting sick three times last month, with back-to-back bouts of a flu-like virus, Strep, and then a sinus infection (which is when I finally caved and saw a doctor!).  After spending most of April sick, I realized that something needed to change.  All the excitement of my new life had left me neglecting to take care of myself.  My (very) inconsistent sleep schedule, changes in diet, and all the environmental changes my body was exposed to seemed to have finally caught up to me.  When I finally began to feel healthy again, I made a commitment to try to prioritize self-care a little more.  No more dancing till 4am on weeknights!  More home cooking and less eating out.  And worst of all, try to limit my dessert intake.  That’s definitely the hardest to stick to ;)

Health concerns aside, I also learned something important about myself in the context of this year of living abroad, traveling, and new experiences.  One night, sitting at home while my friends were out salsa dancing, I found myself in a particularly bad place.  Put simply, I was suffering from FOMO (for non-millennials, that stands for "Fear of Missing Out" :) ). But it was more than just the disappointment of missing out, the severity of my reaction felt disproportionate to the cause.  After cancelling my trip to San Sebastian, I was forced to confront the true reason that missing out had me so undone.  I realized that somehow amidst all these new experiences, fun, and socializing -- which I had thought was me growing and living and connecting with others and being brave and open -- I had lost touch of my self.  On an subconscious level, I think I was afraid that if I wasn't having all the experiences, I wasn't doing this year "right".

After defeatedly returning home from the train station and emptying the suitcase I had packed just hours before, I decided to take a walk through Montjuic -- a beautiful park located just beyond my back door that I had somehow failed to explore during my first month in Barcelona.  Winding my way through the gardens, the smell of Jasmine and late-afternoon golden light flooding my senses, I felt a sense of gratitude for the way the weekend had unfolded.  This marked a turning point for me -- I journaled for the first time in weeks, re-established some healthy habits, and grounded myself in knowing that there is no "right" or "wrong" way for me to live out this year of my life; there is only learning.  The universe had come through for me again -- with a little bit of tough love this time! 

Gardens at Montjuic.&nbsp; If you look through the trees on the left you can tell that there is also an incredible view of the whole city!

Gardens at Montjuic.  If you look through the trees on the left you can tell that there is also an incredible view of the whole city!

More of the gardens.

More of the gardens.

 

 

Sant Jordi

April 23 is a special day in Catalunya - it is the day of Sant Jordi, a holiday based on an ages-old legend about a dragon-about-to-slay-a-princess-who-is-saved-by-a-handsome-warrior.  Sound familiar?  

I have to admit, my initial impressions of the holiday weren’t great.  Traditionally, people celebrate Sant Jordi through the exchange of small gifts: a red rose for women, and a book (a book!) for men.  Needless to say, I found these symbols a bit insulting.  Luckily, nowadays it is much more common for women to receive both a rose and a book, which I’ll consider a win for feminism.

The warrior, Sant Jordi, about to save the princess (insert eye-roll emoji here!).

The warrior, Sant Jordi, about to save the princess (insert eye-roll emoji here!).

Pop-up bookstore.&nbsp; These were EVERYWHERE.

Pop-up bookstore.  These were EVERYWHERE.

But despite my initial reactions, the actual day was something special.  Vendors lined the main ramblas (pedestrian malls) selling every color and variety of rose imaginable (although the red rose is by far the most common).  Pop-up bookstores inhabited every street corner, with children, teenagers, families, grandparents, dogs, literally everyone leisurely strolling past the mountains of books, occasionally stopping flip through their pages.  Everywhere you looked women and men scurried through the crowds, roses in hand.  

 

I was lucky enough to spend part of the holiday with my Catalan friend (who I actually met 10 years ago in high school!)  Sant Jordi is his favorite holiday, and I was lucky to get to experience the tradition through his eyes.  Walking the streets of Barcelona, there was a palpable energy and spirit - something that I think represents a cultural difference between the US and much of Western Europe.  In the US, we mostly celebrate holidays with our families and friends, inside our homes.  But Sant Jordi is a city-wide celebration.  The heart of Sant Jordi takes place on the streets; it flows through the crowds and is woven into the fabric of the Catalan culture.

Another side effect of hanging out with my Catalan friend: slow indoctrination into the Catalan independence movement.  I’m joking but I’m not.  My friend couldn’t resist the opportunity to buy me a special pin that Catalans wear to symbolize their solidarity with the Catalan exiles and political prisoners.  Later, we placed a symbolic yellow rose (the color of Catalunya) on wall of roses symbolizing the wish for Catalan independence.  With these declarations of support, combined with the Catalan words he casually mixed into our conversation, we joked that the brainwashing was already well underway.  

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Red roses for Sant Jordi.&nbsp; Note the Catalan flags on all the tables!

Red roses for Sant Jordi.  Note the Catalan flags on all the tables!

Showing my solidarity.

1 month down, 13 to go!

Hello all!  Can you believe I've been here almost a whole month?!  A lot has happened since I last wrote, so here are a few highlights:

First, a life update!  For those of you who haven't heard, I have officially accepted my offer of admission to Smith College School for Social Work, and will be starting my Master's in June of 2019!  I feel so lucky to get to be a part of such an outstanding program, and to also have this year to travel and explore before embarking on a new career. 

Given that I now have a full 14 months (!!) to travel, this is my official request for you all to COME VISIT ME!  I have almost no set travel plans; however, I do hope to be in Europe through the end of summer, then Southeast Asia through the end of 2018,  and South America for the first 4-5 months of 2019.  If you have plans to travel that could potentially overlap, let me know!  My schedule is flexible and I would love to see all of you!

I also plan to come back to California for a couple weeks over the holidays, so hopefully I'll see some of you then too :)

Now for some highlights from my first month in Barcelona!

Baila Baila Baila!

A couple weeks ago, I went to a Cuban bar with some friends from my house.  The bar offers free Salsa and Bachata dance classes starting at 9:30pm every weekday, followed by open dancing until 2-3am (ah, Spanish time!).  For those of you who know how much I love to dance, this probably comes as no surprise: I LOVED IT.  

I love that there is a culture here in which men and women of all generations go out and dance together.  In the clubs, you'll often hear Salsa and Bachata rhythms interwoven with top-40s songs (or better yet, Salsa/Bachata remixes of top-40s songs) as people of all ages and abilities flock to the dance floor to show off their moves.  I love that anyone can ask anyone else to dance, regardless of how they look, their age, or even their level of ability.  When I dance with men who are better dancers than me, they often take it upon themselves to help teach me new moves.  While it made me a little uncomfortable at first, I quickly got used to dancing with strangers - I think there's something so beautiful about connecting with another person in such an intimate, yet fleeting way.  

Dancing at El Cubano

I've also had my fair share of... less great dance partner experiences.  As a musician, it absolutely drives me crazy when my partner cannot dance on the beat.  Unfortunately, women don't lead (trying not to let my inner feminist overthink that one...) so when this happens, I have to go with it.  Sometimes, it's really hard to go with it.  One time, my partner led me to the dance floor, only to realize he could not locate the rhythm.  To his credit, he didn't begin to dance off-beat - instead, he just waited.  And waited.  And waited.  We must have stood there, motionless, in the middle of the dance floor as other couples spun and twirled and flew around us to the beat of the conga drums, for nearly half the song.  After a few false starts, we finally caught the rhythm.  But not before I almost exploded with frustration at not being able to just yell at him, "It's one, two, THREE!"

I also had the one guy who hummed (loudly, off key) directly in my ear the whole time.  And another who felt the need to count out loud for the ENTIRE song...  But for the most part, I've been so impressed with all the amazing partners I've had who have taught me how to dance!   

I've been back to El Cubano probably 6 times already.  I've also been to a few other salsa/bachata/kizomba bars, and they're all awesome. Many of them will have an instructor-led group dance every 30 min or so in which everyone dances in-sync for a song or two while an instructor leads moves (kind of like Zumba!).  I'm kind of obsessed.  I've actually been out dancing 4 out of 5 nights this week... and those of who know my grandma tendencies understand that staying out till 3am on a weeknight is NOT my style.  But I can't help it... it's SO much fun!

Dancing.

Dancing.

Dancing.

Dancing.

More dancing.

More dancing.

 

Los Bunkers de Carmel

On a particularly gorgeous Friday afternoon a couple weeks ago, a few friends from my Spanish class and I decided to take a little excursion to Los Bunkers de Carmel, the site of anti-aircraft defenses during the Spanish civil war, and also one of the best viewpoints over the entire city.

View from Los Bunkers de Carmel.

View from Los Bunkers de Carmel.

After an hour-long bus ride that turned into a a full-city tour, we hiked up to the top of the hill to take in the breathtaking view.  This was my first bird's eye glimpse of the city, so it was pretty cool to see the layout of the land and take in a different perspective on los barrios I've been exploring on foot.  After enjoying a leisurely picnic, we headed down the hill to grab a café at a small tapas restaurant at the base of los Bunkers.  That's another thing I love about Spanish culture - the emphasis on leisure!  They even have a word, sobremesa, to describe the leisurely conversation you enjoy while sitting at the table with after a meal is over, in no rush to leave or sign the check.  As my dad always says (Hi, Dad!), "there is a value to pleasure in life".  The Spanish certainly seem to live by this principle!   

Picnic with a view.

Picnic with a view.

New friends from Italy, Brazil, and Russia!

New friends from Italy, Brazil, and Russia!

 

La Tormenta

One Monday afternoon, I decided to go on a run (after 2 weeks of my exclusively jamón & manchego diet, it was time!).  Just as I started out the door, I noticed some dark gray thunder clouds inching their way toward the city.  Overly optimistic, I set out for my run anyway, only to get caught in one of the most magnificent thunder storms I've ever witnessed.  In less than an hour's time, dark and ominous thunder clouds gave way to a double rainbow, which melted into a fiery orange sunset.  I arrived back at the house entirely soaked and completely mesmerized.  The pictures speak for themselves:

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Here are some more tidbits from my first month here.  Enjoy!

The house cat.

The house cat.

Friends from the house!

Friends from the house!

Feels like summer here in Barca!

Feels like summer here in Barca!

The statue of Cristobal Colon (Columbus) can be seen from miles away.

The statue of Cristobal Colon (Columbus) can be seen from miles away.

Enjoyed a barbecue on our rooftop terrace!

Enjoyed a barbecue on our rooftop terrace!

View from our roof at night.

View from our roof at night.

The spread.

The spread.

The library of Catalunya is pretty spectacular.

The library of Catalunya is pretty spectacular.

Library of Catalunya courtyard.

Library of Catalunya courtyard.

Cathedral of Barcelona at night

Cathedral of Barcelona at night

Basílica Santa Maria del Mar

Basílica Santa Maria del Mar

Fountain at Plaça de Catalunya at night

Trying out a new look

Trying out a new look

 

 

 

 

 

24 Hours in Valencia

On Friday afternoon, I met two Spanish women in the cafe where I was working.  After bonding over the delicious French toast we had all ordered, we got to talking.  One of the women is in a similar place in life to me - she just quit her unsatisfying retail job, and instead of applying for new jobs, she has decided to save up her money and travel on her own for a while.  We connected over the fact that although neither of us has a concrete plan, something inside is telling us that this is what we need right now, and we’ve decided to trust that feeling.  Somehow, after two hours of conversation, I had booked myself a train ticket to spend the weekend with them in their hometown of Valencia.  I’d be leaving the next morning.

Best French toast ever.

Best French toast ever.

This wasn’t just any weekend in Valencia - it was the weekend of Las Fallas, a four day long city-wide celebration with roots in the Catholic tradition.  Although I’ve been to similar types of festivals before, this was truly like nothing I’ve ever seen before.  What stood out the most to me was how Las Fallas brings together all generations of Valencians to enjoy both ancient traditions and modern festivities.  Having the opportunity to experience Las Fallas with two Valencians, for whom the festival holds so much meaning, was very special.

As soon as I arrived, I was greeted by my two new friends, along with a few of their friends.  Soon after, we sat down for what was by far the best meal I’ve had in Spain so far.  Iberian ham, manchego cheese, fresh muscles, spinach & cheese croquettes, grilled calamari, grilled vegetables, and of course, Paella, which I learned actually originated in Valencia (and therefore is better in Valencia than anywhere else in Spain).  For dessert, we shared cheese flan, a chocolate brownie with ice cream, and a Nutella crepe.  We washed it all down with some tinto de verano - a mix of Spanish Rioja wine and spritzer.  

One of the things I love about Spanish culture is that they love their sweets.  For once I’m not the only person who wants to order dessert!  When I made my classic dumb joke about the separate dessert stomach (I’m sure you’ve all heard it a million times), the girls all nodded vigorously in agreement.  I’ve found my people!!

One of the many incredible fallas.&nbsp; Imagine what it's like when they burn these in the streets!&nbsp;&nbsp;

One of the many incredible fallas.  Imagine what it's like when they burn these in the streets!  

After lunch, we walked around the entire city to take it all in.  During the weekend of Las Fallas, the entire city is transformed for the festival.  Valencians of all generations flood the streets, wearing a festive panuelo de las fallas to mark the occasion.  Women and men dressed in traditional clothing march proudly through the streets, and colorful, multiple-stories high paper-mache structures called fallas decorate almost every street corner.  They reminded me a bit of the floats at Mardi Gras, only much bigger and they all adhere to the bright, cartoon-like style that Las Fallas is known for (see pictures below!).  At the end of the festival, the people set fire to the fallas in the streets, symbolizing the cleansing of the old to make room for the new.  Given how enormous the fallas are, it’s hard for me to imagine how incredible those fires must be. Everywhere you go, people are setting off fireworks in the streets, causing loud explosions every couple of seconds.  Although I never quite overcame the fear that I was in imminent danger, Valencians are completely unphased by the constant explosions - I even saw babies sleeping in their strollers as fireworks exploded just a few feet away.  At night, massive crowds gather to watch incredible light shows that are choreographed to music, and end the night dancing to live music in the streets until the wee hours of the morning.  And then they do it all over again for four nights in a row!

It’s hard to articulate the magnitude of Las Fallas and just how much there was to take in, so instead, I’ll show some pictures and videos:

Women and girls in traditional dress holding flowers to offer to la Virgen.

More of the parade.

Women offering flowers to la Virgen.  Notice that the Virgen's skirt is actually made of flowers, and is being filled in as the deliver their flowers to the Virgen.

The city at night.&nbsp; Hermosa!

The city at night.  Hermosa!

Incredible light show!

Each year there's a competition between the fallas.&nbsp; This was this year's winner.&nbsp;

Each year there's a competition between the fallas.  This was this year's winner. 

Side view of the winner.

Side view of the winner.

The outside of the market.

The outside of the market.

Making paella in the streets!

After 11.2 miles of walking, we finally made it to bed at 5am.  The next “morning” (afternoon) we headed back to the city center to watch a fireworks show, and then enjoyed a late lunch in a beautiful market before I had to catch my train back to Barcelona.

Looking back, I am so glad I decided spend the entire weekend with two girls I had met in a cafe only the day before.  One of my goals for traveling at this time in my life is to push myself out of my comfort zone, practice approaching new situations with curiosity instead of fear, and connect with those around me.  While at times it was exhausting to be having all new experiences, all the while trying to understand, speak, and think in Spanish, I also feel that I got to experience the magic of just saying “yes” and leaving the rest of the experience for the world to unfold.  

New friends!&nbsp; The running joke is that I look the most Spanish out of all of us :)

New friends!  The running joke is that I look the most Spanish out of all of us :)

 

Fishy cheese, carcass collisions, and learning Spanish from the Russians: My first few days in Barcelona

Hi, all!

I wanted to share a few highlights from my first few days in Barcelona!  Also the whole "every couple of days" thing is probably too ambitious for me.  I'm going to call once-a-week blogging a success :).

There's an enormous rooftop patio at the co-living space where I'm staying.  It's been really bright and clear and sunny most days, making for lovely views, and great social media posts: 

Rooftop views

Rooftop views

The glamorous social media presence of a "digital nomad"

The glamorous social media presence of a "digital nomad"

 

On my first night, I went out for tapas with a few people from the house.  We went to a tapas bar called Quimet & Quimet, which ended up being quite the authentic tapas experience.  Those of you who know me well know that, despite how much I want to be an adventurous eater (aren't they somehow superior?), I'm not the best at trying new things that I don't think I'll like ;).  So you all should be VERY PROUD to know that when we ordered two platters of "assorted meats" and "assorted smoked fish", which arrived looking nothing like anything I've seen before and gave absolutely NO indication of what's-what, I tried *almost* everything in front of me!  My least favorite was what we all agreed can only be described as "fishy cheese".  I wish I took a picture but I forgot (also a classic Maggie move).  But the moral of the story is I decided that I'm ok with not having the most sophisticated palette in the world.  From now on I'm sticking to non-fishy cheese :).  

 

I've been doing a lot of walking and exploring during my non-working hours.  On Tuesday I explored the neighborhood of Gràcia.  I loved its narrow streets that open up into charming little squares and parks, its art studios and outdoor cafes, and its lack of tourists!  I stumbled upon a market, which was only half open but still bustling.  I love the markets here - colorful displays of fresh fish and meats, and so lively!  I didn't take a whole lot of pictures (didn't want to stand out as a tourist!) but I did snap this one of one of the fish vendors:

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A facade in Gracia that I really liked :)

A facade in Gracia that I really liked :)

Yesterday I explored El Raval, which felt almost like I entering another world.  It's more diverse than other neighborhoods I've seen, and feels edgier and more energetic.  As I was walking down one of its side streets, I noticed a man dressed in butcher's clothes carrying not one, not two, but three whole pig carcasses, just casually slung over his shoulder.  Watching him, it was as if in slow motion that I then nearly collided head-on with the carcasses as he weaved through traffic, cut directly in front of me, and then disappeared into a butcher shop.  I had to laugh out loud at myself - it's moments like these that really color the experience of solo travel.

While visiting el Raval's famous market, La Boqueria, I had to spring for un cono - basically an ice cream cone but filled with ham and cheese.  I later learned that locals never eat them, but I had to try it for the experience!

One thing I realized upon arriving in Barcelona is that I've really lost a lot of my Spanish :(.  So I signed up for a two-week intensive Spanish course to help jump-start my getting back into it.  Interestingly, the Spanish school is owned and operated by two women from Russia, so about half my classmates are Russian!  The other half are from all over the world.  Needless to say, we've had some very interesting discussions about the global political climate, and it's fascinating to hear their perspectives. 

Part of visiting another country and trying to speak the language is learning to accept that sometimes I'm going to make a fool of myself.  Yesterday was one of those times.  After Spanish class, an Italian woman from my class and I were chatting on our way out the door.  She said something to me in Spanish that just flew over my head.  Not wanting to ask her to repeat herself, I figured it was a pretty safe bet to just say  to whatever it was that she said.  Wrong.  There was a super awkward pause, and she laughed. The teacher, overhearing us, asked what was funny (I had no clue), and the Italian woman explained that she had complimented me on my Spanish, to which I had simply replied "Yes".  Yes, I AM great. Period.  Enough said.  I was pretty embarrassed, especially given the irony of the whole situation!     

Here are some more pictures.  As you'll see, I'm not the best at just taking regular pictures of the scenery, etc..  But below are some things that caught my eye.  Miss you all!

Cono de jamón serrano y queso manchego

Cono de jamón serrano y queso manchego

 
Stumbled upon some Gaudí on one of my walks!

Stumbled upon some Gaudí on one of my walks!

Took me a second to figure out why I was served a mini hour glass with my meal - for knowing exactly how long to steep my tea!

Took me a second to figure out why I was served a mini hour glass with my meal - for knowing exactly how long to steep my tea!

 
You really can't escape it.

You really can't escape it.

 

 

 

 

The Adventure Begins!

I'm jet lagged and exhausted, so I'll keep this short!  But, I made it to Barcelona!!!  Sadly, I didn't see the Northern lights on my layover in Iceland, but I DID end up with an entire row to myself, which was amazing!  I then had a 4.5 hour layover in Reykjavik, which has the most expensive (and not particularly good) airport food I've ever encountered.  Just a heads up if you're ever on a layover there :).  But both flights were super easy - if you're ever traveling to Europe on a budget, I'd definitely recommend taking WOW Air.  Just remember to bring your own water :).

 
Scenes from the Keflavik airport.

Scenes from the Keflavik airport.

 
Given that my ticket cost $177, I think they have a point.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Given that my ticket cost $177, I think they have a point.  

 
My private balcony!

My private balcony!

After a super easy bus ride into the city center (public transit here puts ours to shame), I arrived in El Poble-Sec.  It is a gorgeous day here - 60s, sunny, and people out and about in the streets.  I know, because I can see/hear them from my PRIVATE BALCONY!  I'm completely spoiled.

I'm currently sitting on my double bed (trying not to fall asleep) in my gorgeous room in A Landing Pad - the co-living/co-working space where I'll be living for the next month or so.  It's basically a shared home for about 25 "digital nomads" like me - mainly people in their 20s and 30s who have jobs that can be done from anywhere and want to be able to travel the world and work at the same time.  I haven't met many people yet (first sleep, then socialization!), but it seems like it's a mix of freelance writers, some software engineers, designers, travel bloggers, and other interesting location-independent jobs.  I'm really looking forward to meeting this interesting mix of people from all over the world!  

Each room has original artwork.  Although I have to admit, I'm a little worried mine might give me nightmares...

That's all for now!  Hopefully I'll catch up on some sleep and have more exciting pics and updates to share soon!

 

Love, Maggie

Bedroom artwork

Bedroom artwork